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| R E G I O N A L • T R A V E L • G U I D E Thailand | Burma |
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| Exotic pearls in the ocean, tiny white gems surrounded by irridescent turquoise. Swaying palms, gentle breezes, sunsets stained red like tropical cocktails. And deep deep, indigo seas that reveal rainbows beneath. The waters that surround Thailand are the stuff that dreams are made of. |
| HISTORY |
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Thailand has never been colonised by a foreign power, and despite the occasional invasion, the kingdom has never been under the thumb of anyone else for very long. The earliest records show that the Mons tribes brought a Buddhist culture from the Indian subcontinent. This met Khmer influences from the east, Srivijayan culture from Sumatra and citizens from Thai Nan Chao, which now forms part of southern China
Despite all this, the country retained her independence right up till the 19th century by playing off one European power against another. The 20th century brought great political changes and in the 21st century, the country began forming a parliament. The Thai Royal Family are treated with the utmost respect, even so.
Culturally, the country is a banquet - art, dance, music, architecture and food are all fantastic to experience, and although the country has been influenced by near and far neighbours she has never lost her unique identity.
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| MARINE LIFE |
The western Andaman Sea is where the best and most varied diving is found. The reefs here are influenced by deep water currents and contrasting wind patterns that sweep across the Indian Ocean. Corals are lush and marine life prolific. While the area isn't as prolific a nursery ground for small and weird critters as some other parts of SE Asia, it has more than it's fair share of pelagics, including that most longed for - the whaleshark.
The east coast is a good choice for those months when the monsoon is blowing in across the Andaman Sea. The shallower waters of the Gulf of Thailand are a semi-enclosed sea, and rarely more than 60 metres deep. This causes some heavily sedimentation especially as you get closer to Bangkok, which in turn creates a highly productive marine eco-system that supports some good fringing reefs.
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| Dive Destinations: |
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Thailand's western seaboard is where the best and most varied diving is found. Phuket Island is the place to start and the departure point for the Similans, Ko Surin and Richelieu Rock as well as for cruises to Burma. Just south, the Phi Phi Islands and Krabi can be accessed in a day. However, over on the east coast, Ko Samui and Ko Bon are also good for those months when the monsoon is blowing in from the Andamans.
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| WEST COAST: heading north |
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Phuket: The island of Phuket is the starting point for any dive adventure on this side of Thailand. It has something for everyone from the loud and raucous, but picture-postcard pretty, Patong Beach to calm and quiet Chalong Bay. You can take your pick of whatever resort style suits you best as almost everywhere has a dive shop.
Dive sites that are closer to the island tend to have reduced visibility but are great for less experienced divers. You can access some of the southern dive sites in a day (see below) like Shark Point and the Phi Phi islands. Ko Racha Yai off Phuket’s south east tip is great in the summer months - there is even a small wooden shipwreck.
Ko Bon, Ko Tachai, Ko Surin AND Richelieu Rock: North of the Similans are a chain of islands formed by enormous underwater pinnacles. Ko Bon, Tachai and Surin are enveloped by excellent reefs and prolific marine life. And as they’re exposed to deep ocean currents, there are frequent pelagic sightings. All sorts of sharks, manta rays and schooling barracuda are regular visitors.
At the end of this string, just 20 km north of Surin, is the dive site that has it all - Richelieu Rock. In fact, compared to the rest of Thailand, this is the one “do not miss” dive of your life. After a recent day here, we figured that if we never dived again, we would be forever happy. On a single dive we saw minute harlequin shrimps and enormous whale sharks, curious turtles and elegant sea horses. Not to mention, morays, nudibranchs, giant groupers, ghost pipefish, schooling snappers... and the list could go on and on. Suffice to it say, you could spend a week here and still not see everything the Rock has to offer.
The Similans: For some of the best of southern Thailand‘s diving there is no substitute for the Koh Similans National Marine Park. This chain of 9 tiny islands is ringed by perfect beaches and amazing coral reefs. The park can be accessed in long day trip but a liveaboard is best.
What makes the Similans so distinctive are their two completely different sides. To the east the islands have pure white sand and hard coral gardens that slope down to over 30 metres. Colourful soft corals and sea fans are plentiful, the diving is easy and the pace is calm. The west, however, is much more dramatic, with currents that swirl around huge boulders, spectacular swim throughs and swarms of colourful fish. It’s a bit like diving between flooded skyscrapers that have been reclaimed by the sea.
The Burma Banks: Still heading northwards, the next destination of note is the Burmese Mergui Archipelago. Best known are the Banks, an area of some 1500 square kilometres studded with plateaus that rise up from great depths to reasonable diving limits. The Banks gained a reputation for sharks, nurse, reef and silky just to mention a few, However, it’s not guaranteed that you will see them, whether due to over fishing or the weather, the most frequently seen resident is a “tame” nurse shark called Max.
Many dives in Burma are on pinnacles washed by strong good surges.You are likely to encounter schools of squid, seasnakes and tiny orangutan crabs. If you’re really lucky a whaleshark may show up too, like it did for us. In-shore sites suffer a little from silt run off and boat traffic. Even so, there is plenty of exciting muck diving to be had just an hour or so from port, but the further out you head the better it gets.
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| WEST COAST: heading south |
Koh Phi Phi: Now one of Thailand's most famous resort islands, Phi Phi is also one of the most dramatically beautiful. Just an hour south of Phuket. rugged limestone cliffs explode vertically from the sea while below are long caves, awesome overhangs and swim-throughs. Hard coral gardens have suffered a little from inexperienced boat handlers dropping anchor but soft corals are healthy and host many small fish and crustaceans. Shark Point is less than an hour away and regarded as one of South Thailand's best dives. Currents can be strong and visibility varies but the area is characterised by the a mass of pink and purple corals and the almost guaranteed certainty of spotting a leopard shark.
Krabi, Koh Lanta and Trang: Over the last 10 years dive tourism has advanced down Thailand's south-west coast following the footsteps of intrepid travellers. Although this region has some of the most stunning beaches in the whole country, diving tends to be an hour or more off shore where visibility can reach as much as 40 metres! Dive facilities across this region are not as developed as those in Phuket yet some sites are definitely world-class. Much of the diving takes place around exposed pinnacles that mask submerged marine paradises. Some even host hidden caverns where you can surface inside to admire stalactites hanging over your head. As the only light source comes from the entry channel below, this can seem a little disorientating at first but is a phenomenal natural spectacle.
Koh Turatao: Even further south, just above the Malaysian border, are the exquisite islands of the Turatao National Park, the first marine park in Thailand. As yet fairly undiscovered, facilities are still somewhat limited but as time goes on, it's inevitable that more and more dive centres will crop up on the islands. Dives vary from shallow to 40 metres and visibility can be as much as 35 metres. Like everywhere in the Andaman Sea, currents can be strong as times. Dolphin encounters are frequent and it is said that if you're really lucky, you may even encounter a rare dugong.
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| EAST COAST: Gulf of Thailand, from Koh Samui heading north |
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Koh Samui: Thailand's eastern side has less in the way of prolific reefs than the west and the main tourist island of Koh Samui has the least of these. Yet this very pretty island has an excellent infrastructure and good diving is within easy striking distance. Reefs around the island tend to be murky but the gentle, shelving beaches are popular spots for taking a course. Once training is underway, most centres take divers to the nearby Ang Thong National Marine Park. The most famous day trip from Samui however, is Hin Bai, or Sail Rock. Jutting out of the water 18 kilometres offshore, and rising from 30 metres to the surface, it is covered in beautiful green and yellow corals and frequented by large marine animals like reef sharks and rays.
Ko Phangan: Although often visited as a day trip from Samui, there is enough around the shores to keep most divers amused. Maximum depths here are 24 metres but generally about 14 metres. With reasonable staghorn, table corals and plate corals making up the structure of the reefs, damsels, angels, snappers, stingrays, barracuda, and cuttlefish are all resident.
Ko Tao: Tiny Ko Tao (Turtle Island) and near neighbour, Ko Nang Yuan, have become the epicentre of diving in the Gulf of Thailand. The reason is simple. Unlike Samui, where you really need to travel for an hour or more to reach the best sites, this small area has great diving just seconds from the beach and within a short boat ride you can see large schools of barracuda, big-eyed jacks, tuna and giant trevally. The best dive in the area is undoubtedly Chumphon Pinnacle, where tales of big marine mammals have hit legendary status. Four massive rock pinnacles soar from 40 metres to within 16 metres of the surface forming an underwater mountain range. There is a huge variety of life like giant groupers and batfish amongst colourful black coral gardens. Not only are huge schools of jacks spotted regularly, occasionally sailfish, whalesharks and even whales are too.
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| EAST COAST: Gulf of Thailand, around Bangkok |
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Pattaya to Koh Chang: outside mad, crazy and magical Bangkok, the Thai coast curves south-eastwards until it reaches Cambodia. This entire coastline has plenty of diving opportunities but sadly a combination of overpopulation and misuse of the environment means that diving can be less than outstanding here. The waters of Pattaya are never particularly clear so it's surprising that there are so many dive centres. These specialise in courses and set good standards for elsewhere in the country. The islands just offshore from Pattaya are the most popular dive sites for beginners. The big surprise comes when you learn that this is also Thailand's best wreck diving area with several really interesting wrecks just a short sail to the south east.
Ko Samet and Ko Chang: a little further around the coast, this national marine parks is a favourite with Thai visitors. Snorkelling is reasonable and diving can be arranged but, a better option would be to head further towards Cambodia, and Ko Chang. The largest island in Thailand after Phuket, it is becoming increasingly popular. Opinions on just how good the diving is vary considerably. Much of the shallow reefs around Ko Chang are affected by freshwater run off and silt. What can best be said about the stretch from Samet to Chang is that it remains only partly explored but as yet, this is not a destination for serious divers.
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| FACT FILE: |
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Entry: EU, US and Commonwealth - valid passport required for stays of 30 days
Airports: Bangkok, Phuket, Ko Samui
Flights: Singapore Airlines, Thai, Qatar Air and national carriers to Bangkok or Singapore Internal/connections: Silk, Bangkok Air or regional carriers to Phuket and Ko Samui.
Departure tax: US$15
ACCOMODATION
Everything from small friendly hotels and guest houses to 5 star spa resorts - your dive centre will recommend somewhere nice.
DIVING
Seasons: roughly, November to May - west coast. June to October - east coast
Visibility: 5 metres to ‘infinity’
Water: 25-30 degrees
Deco chambers: Pattaya, Bangkok, Phuket and Ko Samui
GENERAL:
Language: Thai but English is widely spoken
Money: GBP £1 buys 70 baht USD $1 buys 40 baht
Electricity: 220v
Health: No specific inoculations, anti-malaria tablets in the hil regions and the coast east of Bangkok. Get up to date advice.
Disclaimer: All facts were checked at time of publication but things change! Check with relevant authorities for updates.
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