Location, Location, Location - not always the best selling point. Being at the cross roads of many a trade route in the South China Sea seems to have encouraged problems in this lovely country. Every ancient maritime power was attracted to the Philippines - the Arabs, Chinese and Malay peoples all had footholds.

The West got involved in the 1500’s when Christianity came ashore and a new culture emerged. The Spanish settled in a small town called Manila and their influence was astonishing. Independence was retrieved in 1898 but lasted two short years before the Americans got stuck in (1900-1942) as did the Japanese in 1942.

With the end of their occupation in 1946, the Philippines regained democracy but since then there have been revolutions, dictators and economic woes. Despite all this, the Philippines is still regarded as one of the stronger democracies in Asia. Combine that with a mainly English speaking country, incredibly friendly people, beautiful landscapes and a travel cost that is cheaper than you could possibly imagine and you have an ideal long haul destination.

There is potential for excellent diving no matter where you are but with three principal regions where diving is supported by professionally-run centres. The Philippines is also one of the most affordable dive destinations in the world.

The region around capital Manila could be regarded as the birth-place of Philippine scuba diving. Many dive centres sprung from US Navy involvement and you’ll find many Filipino instructors were trained by them. This area is best as a midweek stopover as it can get rather over run by weekenders from Manila.

Subic Bay: originally a Spanish Naval base, the bay became the location of a dispute between Spain and America in 1898. The ensuing war provided a decent wreck, the San Quintin, before the Americans set up base. In WWII the Japanese bombed the area and more planes and boats went down until the Americans retook the bay in 1945. Mount Pinatobo erupted spectacularly in 1991 and smothered much of the coral life but the wrecks remain accessible even though visibility can be eerily low.

Anilao: just 70-odd miles from Manila, this is a macro-photographer's mecca with an extraordinary variety of nudibranchs and other small, colourful reef creatures just a short fin from the beach. Anilao is also the gateway to Sombrero and Maricaban Islands where pelagic fish hover over colourful reefs that are kept healthy by the proliferation of marine sanctuaries. Dive sites are protected at The Cathedral, Bonito and Malajibomanoc Islands.

Puerto Galera: a little further from Manila but a magnet for weekenders, backpackers and holiday makers is Puerto Galera, the “jewel of Mindoro”. Travel four hours from the capital and you can be in a world of tropical perfection. Or so it seems - in the past Puerto Galera was a backpackers haunt that became too famous and burnt itself out. Now the island has been tidied up, and although there are some busy areas, some are still peaceful. There are 30 or so world-class dive sites within a half hour boat ride and an excellent dive infrastructure. Dive sites range from shallow and easy to up-tempo drifts and caves that are only suitable for the experienced.

Half way down the Philippine map is the Visayas. Capital Cebu City provides access to many small islands just a short ferry ride away. And some of these boast diving like nowhere else. Boracay, Bohol, Negros, even Cebu itself possess sub-aqua splendour that really must be seen.

Boracay: in the far north of the Visayas this tiny island is deservedly famous for its powdery white beaches and relaxed lifestyle. Once a retreat for long term travellers who tried to keep it quiet, the island’s reputation finally got out and it reached for the lofty heights as a general tourist resort. There’s plenty to do here, bars and discos line up with sports centres and tourist shops. All the same, there is a good range of diving with some outstanding sites. Easy access to Maninguin and Carabao expand the possibilities to see everything from jacks and fusiliers to sharks.

Panglao Island: just a quick hop from Cebu to Bohol and you’ll find a favourite destination for anyone who has ever been out this way. Alona Beach on Panglao may not be as sophisticated as Boracay but it’s definitely one of the best ‘no news-no shoes’ destinations. There are several dive centres, many small charming hotels and and masses of stunning dive sites all within minutes of shore. Just off the perfect white beach are caves to swim through, deep walls smothered in coral and enormous elephant ear sponges that hide matching football size frogfish. Sail a little north to Cabilao to find deep drifts that host hammerheads, south to Snake Island to meet them or west to immerse yourself in the black coral forests of Balicasag, a protected area.

Negros: the coast of eastern Negros was once overfished and terribly damaged. Then someone got the bright idea to teach local fishing communities about the value of the dive dollar and the coast around Dumaguete is now riddled with tiny marine sanctuaries and projects for sustainable fishing. This is probably one of the best macro locations you will ever find. Think of a critter, mention it to the dive master and off you go to see it. Seahorses, pipefish, frogfish, nudibranchs, even the mimic octopus has been seen amusing divers. And just in case you might (unbelievably) get bored with all that, a short sail away is the country’s most successful marine sanctuary, Apo Island. An experiment in marine rejuvenation, this splendid island is home to turtles, schooling pelagics and pristine hard corals.

The rest of the Visayas: There are so many wonderful dive areas in the Visayas it’s impossible to review them all, but honourable mentions must go to Malapascua, Moalboal and Siquijor. Like the rest of this area there is a brilliant diving supported by high-quality, often European-run dive centres.

Travel as far west as you can to reach Palawan Island, the embarkation point for liveaboards to the Tubatahha Marine Reserve and the world famous wrecks of Coron Bay. Palawan is pretty nice too, but sadly her charms are eclipsed by these two monumental destinations.

Coron: the limestone cliffs, tiny coves and beaches of Busuanga Island make a spectacular back drop to the secrets of Coron Bay. In 1944, US reconnaissance aircraft spotted a hidden Japanese fleet. A task force was duly despatched and some 24 vessels sunk. Only 12 wrecks have been located in divable depths but all are easy viewing even though visibility can sometimes be low. Some of the dives aren’t appropriate for novices but mostly the ghostly hulls are in calm waters and smothered in marine life. Lionfish make regular appearances as do grouper and batfish and so on. You don’t even need to penetrate these wrecks to enjoy them.

Tubatahha: An overnight sail from Palawan is the unique Tubatahha Marine Reserve, designated a World Heritage Site in 1993. It can only be dived in the spring months due to rough seas at other times. However, arriving early on a Spring morning, you are greeted with a glassy surface, and nothing but sunshine and blue vistas. Underwater, steep sided walls rim oval reefs and visibility to die for. Peer down enormous walls coated in gorgonians, impressive sponges and LOTS of big stuff. Reef sharks, barracuda and tuna all cruise by at a lazy pace. Turtles are all over the reef tops and rays flit by frequently. Whilst not the prettiest of reef systems - coral growth is inhibited by natural weather conditions - this is definitely the place for big guys.

Entry: EU, US and Commonwealth - valid passport required for stays of 21 days
Airports: Manila and Cebu

Flights: Singapore Airlines/Silk Air and Qatar Airlines to Manila and Cebu.
Internals: with Philippine Airlines and a host of small carriers.
Departure tax: 550 pesos

ACCOMODATION
The islands are full of small friendly hotels and guest houses - your dive centre will recommend somewhere nice.

DIVING
Seasons: rainy from June - October; cool and dry from November - February; hot and dry, March to May
Visibility: 10 metres to ‘infinity’
Water: 25-29 degrees
Deco chambers: Manila, Batangas and Cebu

GENERAL:
Language: English, Spanishand regional dialects
Money: £1 buys 90 pesos
Electricity: 110 volts, sometimes 220v on the islands
Health: No specific inoculations, anti-malaria tablets in most areas except the Visayas. Get up to date advice.SAFETY

Yes, there have been problems. These incidents are relatively isolated but highly covered by foreign media. Over 90% of the country is Christian but Muslim extremists, Abu Sayeff, operate in the far south around Sulu and Basilan. This area should be avoided but it is a LONG way from the principal dive regions. Like almost any part of the world, care should always be taken. Perhaps more of a curiousity to the average European, the Philippines is also a centre for incredibly clever computer hackers that do like to write viruses. Peculiar.

Disclaimer: All facts were checked at time of publication but things change! Check with relevant authorities for updates.