R E G I O N A L • T R A V E L • G U I D E
Maldives |
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| All those dreams of playing Robinson Crusoe, being cast away on your own private idyll and living out the natural life can all come true in the Maldives. What’s even better is you can do all that with hot and cold running water, plenty of friendly people to play Man Friday and go diving at the same time. |
| HISTORY |
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The first known settlers arrived from Ceylon and southern India around 500 BC as the islands were on Indian Ocean trade routes. This introduced both Buddhist and Hindu religions, while Arab traders, many centuries later, brought Islam to the shores.
It wasn’t until the 16th Century that the Europeans got involved. First Portuguese merchants arrived, then in the 17th century, the Dutch took hold but without establishing a colonial administration. Finally in 1867, the British established a protectorate which allowed them to build defence facilities. The Royal Air Force had a wartime airfield in southern Addu Atoll. In 1956 they developed the base as a staging post, employing hundreds of Maldivians and resettling many native Gan islanders. This wasn’t to last and after some political wranglings, the Brits left and the Maldives became fully independent in 1965.
When tourism first arrived, the Moslem government was careful to contain development in a small area near the airport. In 1972 there was just one resort but as time went by tourism became a major part of the economy. Now there is rapid economic growth based mostly on this plus a healthy tuna fishing industry.
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| MARINE LIFE |
| Fish, fish and yet more fish. There is no doubt about it, this is the place to go for them. Like no other tropical destination, the reefs and atolls here host some of the most amazing quantities of fish you will ever see. It really is like swimming in a great, big aquarium. On the other hand, this is not a place to see prolific corals. El Nino effected those in shallow water but get down below 10 metres and you'll hardly know it had happened. There's plenty of colourful soft coral and hard corals are regenerating, but more than anything else, you'll just be overwhelmed by the clouds of fish that block your field of vision. |
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| Dive Destinations: |
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There are now around 100 designated resorts, all with similar charms. It can be hard to choose between them - after all, one perfect tropical paradise is much like another - but for divers there are a few tips. Opt for a smaller island with a good house reef - the resort usually allows shore and night diving and tends be more diver orientated. Weather patterns will steer you, too. It’s better to choose the side of an atoll that is away from prevailing winds.
Location is the final point to consider - the North and South Male atolls are closest to the airport so transfer times will be quicker. However, these days, even remote atolls and resorts can be reached in about an hour by seaplane. Finally, if you can abandon the castaway dream, try a liveaboard and see more than one area at once. Here’s an atoll by atoll review.
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| NORTH AND SOUTH MALE |
Home to both the capital, Male - which you’re unlikely to see before you get whisked to a waiting transfer - and the airport, the resorts in the north and south Male atolls were the first developed. Islands vary in size from a 10 minute walk around the rim to those that take as much as 40 minutes! In general they tend to be smaller and more developed than ones further afield. International style restaurants, gyms and sports facilities set the tone on some while others are still as rustic and charming as when they were built.
BANDOS: close to the airport, this sophisticated island was the location of our first ever open water dives - and the memories are still crystal clear. With everything from the “airport wreck” (the Victory, a 3500 tonne cargo ship) to the calm and pretty house reef that has several tame morays.
ERIYADU: way up the top of the north Male atoll, this is a real escapists island. Tiny, simple bungalows hide under palms while the bar hovers over a perfect blue sea. The focus on diving is a credit to the resident Werner Lau dive centre. Within a 30 minute boat ride is a heart stopping shark dive and the house reef is perfect for a quiet night dive.
RIHIVELHI: surrounded by a lagoon with two uninhabited islands just a short walk - yes, walk - away, this is a place for getting in touch with the Maldives before tourism hit. There’s still plenty of comfort though, and great food. At the very southern tip of South Male atoll there’s also easy access to all sorts of dives sites.
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| ARI |
The largest atoll in the country, but still reasonably close to the airport, Ari is splashed with resorts both around the rim, plus some in the centre which have access to dive sites in all directions.
FESDU: smack bang in the middle of the north of the atoll, circular bungalows sit discretely amongst flower gardens. It’s easy to reach a huge variety of sites including the well encrusted Halaveli Wreck. Maya Thila is a protected marine area with almost every marine species you can think of on it.
LILY BEACH: this reasonably new resort has stylish bungalows with the shower in the garden. Leap in off the boat jetty to find a haven for moray eels, porcelain crabs and the ubiquitous powder blue surgeon fish. We often came face to face with juvenile reef sharks.
VILAMENDHOO: famous for it’s multifaceted house reef, this is a real divers destination. On one side the steep wall drops to 35 metres, and is peppered with tiny caves and overhangs. Mantas and even baby whale sharks make an occasional appearance. Or just wander a few steps from the Werner Lau dive centre to find a lovely sloping reef wall. They also arrange trips right a cross the atoll including whale shark spotting expeditions. |
| NILANDHE |
Due south of Ari, North and South Nilande atolls are one of the newest areas to be developed. So far there’s only three resorts. This area is comparatively isolated yet there is a stronger presence of Maldivian people as many work in the resorts.
Filitheyo: the lone resort in the North of the atoll, this large, international style island actually takes an hour to stroll around. The centre is lush jungle and one side has a lovely white sand beach which, along with the pool, attracts quite a lot of families. Another Werner Lau divemaster will introduce you to somewhat smoother underwater geography with good soft corals and just as many fish. And with free Nitrox fills!
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| MEEMU |
One of the areas now earmarked for development, Meemu is a bit of hike south of South Male atoll.
MEDHUFUSHI: as tourism grows, so new resorts gain in standards. This one is 5 stars with all the relevant facilities - including a Scottish Head Chef! The dive centre is also Werner Lau, but sadly this island doesn’t have a house reef. What it does have though is good access to some great sites. The Rayvilla Wreck sits at about 33 metres and is smothered in glass fish. Medhufushi Thila has some of the nicest soft coral in the area. |
| BAA and RAA |
North east of the airport this region has a large collective fishing fleet, some agriculture, handicraft production and a tradition of boat building.
SONEVA FUSHI: renown for a standard of luxury found on very few islands, Kunfunadhoo is large enough to mean you can hire a bicycle to tour around. There are several beaches and lush vegetation hides exclusive bungalows. The resort has a good house reef and some wonderful boat dives near by. Interesting reef formations are influenced by wide channels and strong currents. |
| LHAVIYANI |
Just over 23 miles by 22, this atoll is home to the country’s tuna canning factory. Fishing is done with line and rod and is regarded as being particularly eco-friendly.
Kuredu: one of the country’s biggest islands at a whole mile long, this is a very busy and popular resort with lively nightlife. The island’s turquoise lagoon is shallow and perfect for courses. The nature of this atoll's lagoon means reduced water flow and wave action so it’s calm and in good condition but pelagic encounters are fewer. |
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| ADDU |
The furthest atoll from Male, Addu has always been a major contender in Maldivian politics. After the British Airforce base was closed, the island of Gan was redeveloped as a resort.
Ocean Reef Club: the Airforce linked four small islands with causeways and you can cycle along their full-length if you fancy. The building work did, however, alter tidal patterns which in turn damaged some coral. However, along the outer fringing reefs there are deep walls, caves and plenty of big fish action. Inside the lagoon there’s a large wreck, the torpedo damaged British Loyalty. |
| FACT FILE: |
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Entry: a visa for 30 days is issued on arrival.
Flights: Emirates and various charter carriers from Europe. Singapore Airlines from Singapore.
Transfers: by speedboat or seaplane.
Departure tax: included in your ticket
GENERAL:
Language: Divehi, but everyone speaks English
Money: the US Dollar rules
Electricity: 240 volts with British style plugs
Health: free from most health hassles including malaria, but mosquitoes are a nuisance.
DIVING
Seasons: Before you choose a resort check what direction the prevailing winds are coming from. Currents run in line with the winds and bring in clearer waters from the open ocean. Liveaboards will search out the best sites for the season.
May to November = Southwest monsoon -> go to the west of an atoll
December to April = Northeast monsoon -> go to the east of an atoll
Water temperatures: 25-29 °C.
Deco chambers: Bandos and Male.
Disclaimer: All facts were checked at time of publication but things change! Check with relevant authorities for updates.
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