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| R E G I O N A L • T R A V E L • G U I D E Bali | Banda | Komodo | Irian Jayal | Manado |
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history • marine life • Bali • Banda • Komodo • Manado • Lembeh • Irian Jaya • fact file • top |
| The Indonesian archipelago is a magnetic mix of natural splendours and cultural diversity. Over the centuries it has attracted adventurers and scientists, missionaries and pirates, industries, travellers - and divers. |
| THE REGION |
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There is something very special about the 13,600 islands that make up the world’s fifth largest country. Diverse wildlife complements distinctive cultures, an alluring tropical lifestyle and magnificent beaches. However, the paradise that is Indonesia has been scarred by racial and religious conflicts, organisational chaos and a fair share of natural disasters. Despite this, the country remains our favourite dive destination. The people are genuinely welcoming and the diving so incredible, that the rest becomes inconsequential. |
| HISTORY |
| The earliest inhabitants of the Indonesian archipelago arrived from India or Burma, later migrants came from China and Indochina. However, Indonesia's modern character has it roots in the Buddhist and Hindu kingdoms of the 7th century. Islam showed up in the 14th century causing the others to retreat to Bali. Western influences included the Portuguese in the 1500’s then the Dutch in the 1800’s who dominated the spice trade. However, their colonial power declined and strong national factions, along with the Japanese occupation in WWII, led to the formation of a new Indonesian Republic in 1949. The decades since then have been turbulent to say the least. Initial democracy was followed by martial law, socialist reform and rebellions. If you remember the film, the Year Of Living Dangerously, you’ll get a feel for what went on. Major disturbances have occurred in East Timor, Ambon, Kalimantan and West Papua. East Timor has been granted independence but Aceh still fights for it. The issue for many is simple: that Jakarta is too far, both physically and emotionally, from her population to be ruling so many diverse people from different regions and backgrounds - there are around 300 ethnic and tribal groups. |
| MARINE LIFE and WILDLIFE |
| Indonesia’s islands are unique. Naturalist Alfred Wallace described an invisible line that runs between Bali and Lombok then north between Borneo and Sulawesi. This, the Wallace line, divides the area into two zoo-geographic regions, the Oriental and Australian. The lushness of Bali’s coconut strewn shorelines contrast strongly with the arid environment further east, a haven for all sorts of unusual creatures both on land and in the sea.
Underwater, the marine realm cannot be rivalled. The Asian region has 55% of the world’s coral - compare that to just 14% in the Caribbean - and Indonesia has the world’s highest species numbers and diversity. |
| Dive Destinations: |
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Wherever you go, there is a reef, a wreck, a whole new world to discover. Reaching some of Indonesia’s widespread islands can be quite an adventure, however, the following are on easy flight routes. |
| Bali |
| This tiny volcanic island is one of the world’s most stunning. Even the islanders call it the Island of the Gods. The combination of a balmy climate, unique culture, delightful people and great diving adds up to one supremely good destination. Strangely, the island is often overlooked by divers who arrive then jump on a liveaboard to more distant marine parks. However, Bali’s fringing reefs are too good to miss. The island’s volcanic nature means that rich nutrients supply the many marine creatures that thrive in these conditions - and attract special creatures like whalesharks. Perhaps the best dive on the island - and certainly our all time favourite - is the Liberty Wreck at Tulamben. This WW1 Cargo ship was abandoned below active Mount Agung. Some years later Agung exploded and rolled the ship down the sloping reef. She is broken into several pieces that have created a splendid artificial reef. What makes it so special though is its capacity to change. Sometimes the water will be murky but a rare mola-mola (sunfish) will approach you from the gloom while at others the water is crystal clear and you can admire the enormous school of jacks that circle above. Meanwhile, down at 35 metres pygmy seahorses reside in tiny fans. Other dive areas in Bali include the small marine park at Menjangen Island in the North west. The walls here are really quite splendid with lots of cracks and crevices providing homes for critters. Speaking of critters, nearby Secret Bay is the place for rare and unusual species. Back on the east coast there are more coral reefs and offshore islands that supply a great variety of diving. history • marine life • Bali • Banda • Komodo • Manado • Lembeh • Irian Jaya • fact file • top |
| EAST of BALI |
| Heading away from Bali, a chain of tiny beautiful islands trip towards Timor. Known collectively as Nusa Tenggara, they all have good dive potential although the main draw in the fabulous Komodo Marine Park about half way along. Most people head this way on a liveaboard as it gives the potential to cover greater ground in comfort. Directly opposite Bali is contrasting Lombok. Dry where Bali is green, Sasak rather than Hindu, Lombok was a favoured haunt of the backpacking fraternity as she has three idyllic coral islands just off her north coast. The coral reefs suffered through overdevelopment but have now been turned into marine parks and are regenerating. Sumbawa is next and her coastal reefs are pretty enough, sitting beneath dramatic, barren hills. Below the water the diving tends to be more about small creatures but surprises happen - mantas appear on occasion. At the end of Sumbawa you reach the magnificent Komodo Marine Park - a dream location especially for underwater photographers. Not only is it over the Wallace Line but the island itself is barely populated so it’s natural resources have been preserved better than most. The island has only a minimal number of humans as it has the world’s highest population of the twelve foot long, meat-eating monitor lizard known as a Komodo dragon. These are enormous, ugly beasties and not to be trifled with. Under the waves, Komodo is a wonderland that can be so thoroughly splendid it’s hard to describe. So, here are some things we have seen, 14 mobula rays in a squadron, our first ever pygmy seahorse, solar powered nudibranchs that live on sunlight, giant tuna swarming over our heads in a current. Tiny bamboo sharks. Curious banded seasnakes. We once dived in Horseshoe Bay and listened to mating whales. We sailed through packs of feeding dolphins 300 hundred strong. Sites litter the waters between Komodo and the western tip of Flores. Rinca Island is ringed by steep walls smothered in coral. Yes, it’s outstanding diving, but be aware it’s tough diving... currents are strong, deep water upwellings can be icy and either can wipe out a planned dive at a second’s notice. |
| MANADO |
| On the top of the North Eastern tip of Sulawesi, one of Indonesia major cities, Manado, is encapsulated by the Bunaken Marine Park. This area has become very popular over recent years due to the direct flight by Silk Air from Singapore. And once you get there, the marine park is just moments from the coast. The 800 metre dormant volcano, Manado Tua, towers over the islands of the park - Bunaken, Siladen, Montehage and Nain. Each is ringed by reefs, mostly with steep walls and prolific coral growth. Pelagics pass by, usually while you have your nose down admiring some delightful, colourful creature, but there is so much variety here that it’s hard to see it all. There is a small wreck of the coast at Molas - a Dutch cargo ship that sunk during WWII sits at 35 metres and is now covered with soft corals and attracts a lot of fish. Visibilty tends to be low due to river run off but there are good views of the propeller and cargo holds. |
| LEMBEH STRAIGHTS |
| Around the tip of Northern Sulawesi, just two hours from Manado is the ultimate muck diving region, the Lembeh Straights. Diving here takes place in the narrow channel that runs between the coast and Lembeh Island. It is a natural breeding ground. The water is fed by nutrient rich volcanic soil and is never crystal clear but that is part of it’s joy... getting down to the seabed and discovering just how many strange things are there.
The area is perhaps best known for all things hairy - seahorses, frogfish and pipefish all seem to have grown protective coats of hair that allow them the best camouflage available. This is also one of the world’s few known locations for the elusive mimic octopus but there are also several really good, deep water wrecks. The strangest we ever saw there was our dive guide trying to encourage a deadly blue ring octopus from it’s lair with his fingers. Hmmm. A little south from the island is the very busy port of Bitung. Although the shipping activities here stir up the water, there are several really good wreck dives. Three WWII era boats sit at 30 metres or so. The Bimoli was Japanese and sunk when hit by a torpedo but is now well covered in corals, sponges and crustaceans. history • marine life • Bali • Banda • Komodo • Manado • Lembeh • Irian Jaya • fact file • top |
| IRIAN JAYA |
| The newest region to come under diving scrutiny is the western end of New Guinea. As remote as anywhere can be, yet surprisingly easy to reach, the reefs here were surveyed by a group of Australian scientists. They discovered the world’s highest counts of corals, molluscs and crustaceans. Not long after their reports hit the press a whole new dive industry developed. At present there is just one resort which is regarded as basic, but several good quality liveaboards. The area is highly unpopulated. Most islands are limestone and there is little natural water. The people that live here tend to be seafaring and remain fairly close to Sorong. The corals are pristine and the quantity of tropical fish is outstanding. Diving in amongst clouds of fish so thick you can barely see through them is quite an experience. On one dive we counted 14 different corals in a patch we could have wrapped our arms around. Larger species are less common - turtles are curious, but sharks wary and stay away from bubbles. However, there are several manta cleaning stations and a two WWII plane wrecks have been located. No doubt there are more and they will be discovered as time is spent in the area. |
| BANDA |
| Even newer - in dive terms - than the Irian Jaya region is the Banda Sea. Many years back, diving from Ambon was very popular but due to civil unrest in the 1990's this region was bypassed for quite some time. Now though, the poitical situation has settled somewhat and divers are startng to return. It's possible to dive from Ambon, the Banda Islands and travel around the region on a liveaboard. The Banda group are probably the most interesting both scenically and from a historical point of view - this is the birthplace of the nutmeg trade and one of only two places on the planet where nutmeg is successfully grown. Once it was one the othe richest palces on earth too with many colonial powers fighting over it. The diving here is spectacular with everything from magnificents soft corals to amazig tiny critters. And the local populations are well aware of the value of their natural resources so the rreefs are pretty undisturbed comapred to some areas. |
| FACT FILE: |
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Getting there: GENERAL: |
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