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R E G I O N A L • T R A V E L • G U I D E
FIJI |
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| The truly exotic mixed with a taste of the past, a pinch of embarrassing history and a mass of multicultural intrigue. Head to that point on the globe exactly opposite ours and find Fiji. |
| HISTORY |
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Fiji has a fascinating history that encompasses centuries of tribal warfare, colonial influences, religious meddling and, yes, cannibalism! Famous explorers, Tasman and Cook both landed and left for fear of being pot-roasted and William Bligh dropped in after being set adrift from the Bounty.
In the 1800’s, western traders and missionaries arrived and their impact was enormous - violent clan warfare broke out and Fijian society changed rapidly. Shipwreck survivors, deserting sailors and escaped convicts all took part in Fiji’s development but many didn't survive long before they were eaten.
Eventually, the British claimed Fiji as a colony in 1874 which settled some of the tribal strife. They imported indentured Indian sugar workers but indentured labour was abolished in 1919. However, there were so many of these immigrants, that by this time, the indigenous people represented an ethnic minority in their own land. Racial tension finally led to a bloodless coup in 1987.
The political turmoil has finally settled and the Fijians, through all this, have managed to hold onto many of their traditional rites and practices. They are an incredibly friendly people that welcome tourism. And these days there is (probably) no chance you will get eaten!
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| MARINE LIFE |
Fiji’s reefs, like much of the South Pacific, are varied and exciting. Nicknamed the soft coral capital of the world, it isn't hard to see why. Large soft corals, which you can only describe as trees, can be found all over, from close to the surface to well below diving limits. This is possibly thanks to the 30 metres-plus visibility that keeps the depths well lit. Plankton blooms during April and May or November and December can reduce the visibility a little, but can bring in filter-feeders and pelagics. Mostly though Fiji is best known the sheer splendour of it’s underwater rainbows.
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| Dive Destinations: |
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For our down-under cousins a trip to Fiji is much like a trip down the Red Sea for us. And although the country seems quite wide spread, an incredibly efficient internal network of small aircraft make it easy to get around quickly and cheaply. Pick at least two regions to explore for a taste of the differing pace of life, both above and below the waterline.
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| VITI LEVU |
This is the island that you will land on and is also location of the political capital, Suva. However, international flights tend to land at Nadi on the opposite side of the island. Both cities are tiny by European standards but can be interesting for a day or two.
Divers usually head straight out to one of the other island groups, but Beqa Lagoon on the south-east coast is a worthwhile dive destination. Over 10 miles across, it is actually the crater of an extinct volcano. Although not the most impressive of Fiji’s locations, hundreds of divers come to this area as access and facilities are good. Soft corals are abundant, along with large sea fans. Nutrient rich waters and currents keep the corals in good condition and sites like Golden Arches live right up to their name.
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| VANUA LEVU |
The second largest island in the group and relatively undeveloped except around capital, Savusavu, this island has limited infrastructure and services. You can get an insight into multi-cultural Fijian daily life but there’s not a lot of sightseeing to be done. Everything shuts on a Sunday, including the fabulous pizza place. However, who needs that when you have Fiji’s main dive attraction - the Somosomo Straights. Some of the dives here are the stuff that legends are made of and many consider this to be location of the world’s most prolific soft corals.
The Great White Wall is outstanding - the current here can be strong, but the rushing currents feed the abundance of white soft corals that define the site. Rainbow's End offers phenomenal gardens of multi-hued soft corals as the currents here run perpendicular to the reef. Noel's Wall is a cliff face that acts as magnet for big fish. Dogtooth tuna, sharks, and rays can be seen, along with abundant soft corals. Jean-michel Cousteau’s Resort is just outside Savusavu so reef ecology and care is top priority. |
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| TAVEUNI |
This “small and perfectly formed’ island is opposite Vanua Levu but has a slightly more Fijian feel. Smothered in riotous flora, this is the one place we have been where we could pick mangoes right off the tree outside our room. In fact there were so many we almost grew to hate them. Unlike the local people who are as charming as can be. Children will escort you along the road and ask you in for tea while the town elders invite travellers to join in the mystical Kava ceremony. This natural root is pounded, chewed and immersed in water until it turns to slush, then passed around in a coconut shell for sipping. The effect is faintly narcotic. The international date line runs through Taveuni too, so you can hop back and forwards between days if you feel that w ay in inclined.
As the island lies on the other side of the Somo-somo straights, dive sites accessed from here are the much the same. However, there are some that can only be reached from Taveuni. Purple Wall (in the channel between Taveuni and Qamea begins in about 30 feet and drops vertically to 80 feet, the sides are a forest of purple soft coral and Blue Ribbon Eel Reef is, obviously, where you spot them. |
| KADAVU |
The fourth largest island in the group and south of Viti Levu, this island never even hit the travellers path as it’s tortuous shape and hilly interior make it nigh-on-impossible to get around. Instead, it earned it’s reputation thanks to it’s reefs - The Great Astrolabe Reef is the fourth largest barrier reef on the planet. As diving facilities grew, more exploration was carried out, and new reefs - Solo, Namalata and Tavuki - were explored. The whole area has excellent visibility and is awash with soft corals. Yellow Wall is one of the best sites and has soft corals that hang from a series of swim throughs.
Life on the island is beyond slow, a real haven of tranquility and nature. It’s worth a walk into the hills to spot the birds and butterflies while late night crab visits will definitely keep you amused. |
| The YASAWA AND MAMANUCA ISLANDS |
The chain of islands that stretches away from Nadi are some of Fiji's most popular destinations, simply because they are so accessible. There are backpacker style resorts on tiny coral atolls, larger islands with sweeping beaches and even newly developed high-class Spa resorts. Local villages, stunning coastal scenery, turquoise waters and secluded beaches all add up to chill-out destinations with an off the beaten track ambience. You won't find any culture on these islands but they are great places to relax with a beer on the beach, meet fellow travellers and have fun.
Diving tends to be of less importance than in other areas. Magic Island for example, has some nice hard corals and we spotted several seasnakes but as the reefs here and nearby are affected by winter cyclones, there is less structure to attract fish. We once got stormed in for several days, but it was great place to get caught in. |
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| OTHER AREAS |
You can dive almost anywhere in Fiji and as tourism grows, more islands open up to divers. However facilities in the outlying areas are slim. Gau, in the far North has no resorts at all while the Lau Group has a serious lack of transport. Only a few cargo boats visit the group each month! The good news is that there are a few exceptional liveaboard boats that sail Fiji’s waters and they often include these in their schedules.
If you are in the mood for a modicum of history and culture, the place to head to is Levuka. This island, just 20 minutes from Suva, was the capital of the country back when the British ruled and was the first European settlement in Fiji. Sandalwood traders settled as early as 1806, and throughout the 1800s the town boomed with visiting sailors, whalers and colonial administrators. At its height there were 52 hotels and the pace of life was fast and furious. Today Levuka has slowed to the point of being in reverse. Beach Road feels like the old west with coconut palms but the colonial buildings are in remarkably good condition. Stroll along the waterfront to admire 150 year old churches, schools and the original town hall. |
| FACT FILE: |
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Entry: a valid passport and a ticket for return or onward travel is required.
Flights: Get a round-the world ticket on a network like Star Alliance to Nadi, the principal gateway. From Australia - Qantas and many other carriers.
Departure tax: $20.00 departure tax in Fijian currency
GENERAL:
Language: everyone speaks English. Fijian is a curious language where you will stumble on pronunciation. Nadi is actually Nandi, Beqa is Benga...
Money: £1 = 3.35 Fiji Dollars = US $1.83
Electricity: with Australian three pin power outlets
Health: Fiji is free from malaria, yellow fever and major tropical diseases.
DIVING
Seasons: The southern hemisphere’s winter is May to October with temperatures averaging 20 - 26°C. The summer, from November to April sees temperatures of 24 - 30°C. Certain months are subject to hurricanes.
Visibility: can go over 40 metres
Water temperatures: 25-29 °C.
Deco chambers: Suva.
Disclaimer: All facts were checked at time of publication but things change! Check with relevant authorities for updates.
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