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R E G I O N A L • T R A V E L • G U I D E
EAST AFRICA: Kenya | Tanzania |
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| Wide open plains with game wandering across them; ancient tribes facing up to the reality of modern cultures and western lifestyles; tiny dhows sail under perfect blue skies and iridescent turquoise waters mask precious coral reefs. |
| THE REGION |
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So let’s talk big stuff - elephants, giraffe, rhinos, cheetahs and lions. Deep breath! At least once in your life you have to come face to face with a BIG cat. It’s an unmissable, heart stopping, breathtaking experience. But if you’re a diver, it might seem awfully hard to give up the chance of having that one-on-one experience with a hammerhead for a larger version of Tiddles. Except you don’t have to, you can have your cake and eat it. Just head to Kenya and Tanzania - the most promising of diving destinations simply because you can do it all.
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| MARINE LIFE AND WILDLIFE |
| While land based animals are a given in East Africa, the marine life is less well known. These countries border the Indian Ocean and are affected by her temperatures and currents. When El Nino hit a few years back the reefs were affected by coral bleaching. However, soft corals regenerate fairly quickly and marine species are as abundant as they ever were. Many migratory patterns take in this coast: whales, whalesharks and turtles come this direction and if you get out in the blue, there are plenty of pelagic fish. In the flatter, coastal reefs, critter life rivals the Red Sea and we have seen things there we would have once only expected to see in Asian waters. |
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| Dive Destinations: |
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East Africa’s two most diver-friendly nations are Kenya and Tanzania. Kenya is the best-known African country for good reason - it was one of the first to open its doors to tourism and to recognise the benefits of it’s natural resources. Now this major wildlife safari destination plays host to thousands of visitors every year.
Though Kenya may be the leader in safari holidays, Tanzania isn’t too far behind. With parts of the Serengeti National Park, Mount Kilimanjaro and Lake Victoria, plus the spectacular Ngorongoro Crater, there are possibly some of the best big game experiences to be had. Although less commercial than Kenya, the country is warm and friendly, with more of that “out of Africa” feel than you will find in her neighbour.
Both countries have good dive facilities.
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| KENYA |
The entire length of Kenya’s coast is protected by a long barrier reef that is exposed at low tide. The lagoons and beaches behind the reef become so shallow that diving, snorkelling or even swimming are out of the question. Most diving is shore-based using day boats which take divers to the offshore reefs that protect the coastline - a journey of between 30-45 minutes but timing is critical. Diving is often restricted to mornings as this is when the boats can navigate over the reefs.
The entire coastline is subjected to the same conditions. The coral reefs are full of low-lying, hard corals which form small drop offs, classic reefs and gentle sloping banks. The corals tend to be the slower-growing, hardier varieties that can survive the pounding Indian Ocean swells. There are plenty of colourful fish and if you are lucky you may get the chance to see a whale shark or manta ray as it meanders up the coast.
There are many resorts areas heading either north or south from Mombasa so choosing a dive location is probably more to do with what else you may want to do. It’s easy to organise a safari from any on these resorts, but the better, longer safaris are best reached from Nairobi.
MOMBASA: one of the oldest cities in East Africa, the original old town dates back some 700 years to the days of the Arab traders. It is a fascinating combination of old and new and with plenty to see, do and buy.
The town is actually on an island connected to the coast by bridges and ferries. It is quite industrialised so there are no beaches or diving facilities right in the centre. Instead, most places referred to as Mombasa are usually on the stretch of coast just north. Unfortunately, this area suffers from local industry as well as some over-diving in the past. Things are improving but for better diving and a more relaxed pace, head north or south.
LAMU: the furthest north - and most remote - location is this centuries old African/Arabian trading port. A very “in” island, ideal for those who want a real escapist holiday, but dive facilities are variable depending on the season.
MALINDI: an hour or so north of Mombasa, this major tourist centre is centred on a small town that looks rather frayed. However, the town allows you to see some of the reality of life on the coast. Despite being designated a National Marine Park, diving is limited by the seasons and the run-off from the Sabiki River. The annual silting means there is no point in trying to dive in here between January and April.
WATAMU: just half an hour south of Malindi (about 60 miles north of Mombasa) is the very pretty Turtle Bay which also holds Marine Park status. Although this area is still tidal, the formation of the bay means that it is possible to swim and dive for longer periods of the day. This is some of the best diving in the country and as added bonus, it is all protected by law. Whale sharks are sometimes spotted and turtles nest nearby.
DIANI BEACH: heading south from Mombasa this section of white sandy coast is very highly developed with hotel after hotel marching towards the Tanzanian border. The good news is that they are well spaced out with decent landscaping, so you are unlikely to notice the extent of the development. Most hotels have a dive centre or use the centre in their “sister” hotel.
SHIMONI: furthest south and just a few kilometres from the Tanzanian border is the Kisite Marine National Park. The only access to this area, apart from day trips Diani hotels offer, is via the town of Shimoni. The park borders onto the deeper waters of the Pemba channel so the diving is a little more adventurous, although still limited by the tides.
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| SAFARIS |
| The parks closest to the coast (like Tsavo) have less game than the exotic Masai Mara or Sambaru. For a really good safari, it may be best to start in Nairobi, head up to the Mara, then finish your trip on the coast. Mount Kilimanjaro can be seen from the southern coast, but real hill climbers may like to think about reaching her from Tanzania where access is easier. |
| KENYA FACT FILE: |
Entry: visas issued on arrival
Flights: regular scheduled flights from London to Nairobi with connections to Mombasa. Charter flights direct to Mombasa mostly require you book a package holiday.
Departure tax: US $20 if not included in your ticket
GENERAL
Language: Swahili is the official language, but English is common.
Money: £1 = 145 Kenyan Shillings
Electricity: 220 - 240 volts
Health: Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, tetanus, polio, rabies and anti-malarial tablets.
DIVING
Seasons: temperate in the highlands, hot and humid on the coast. There are two rainy seasons to look out for: March to May is the 'long rains' while the 'short rains' arrive in November and December.
Visibility: 10 metres to 30
Water temperatures: 25-29 degrees
Deco chamber: Mombasa
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| TANZANIA |
Unlike Kenya, Tanzania's diving is based around the small islands that lie off her coastline rather than off the coast itself. Also unlike Kenya, where transport and facilities are focussed on giving the tourist what they want, it’s best to arrange any additions to diving in advance. Getting from the coast to Kilimanjaro or the Ngorongoro Crater, isn’t difficult, it just takes some thought.
PEMBA: this island is a journey back through time. It is the clove capital of the world, producing the largest quantity of the popular spice in its interior and so close to the Kenyan border that it’s actually, it’s easier to get here from Shimoni, than Tanzania.
There are two distinct styles of diving - to the east, the side exposed to the open ocean, the diving is mostly big blue. Rough seas and strong currents sometimes bring in swarms of sharks. Hammerheads are said to be common, but usually deeper than sport diving limits will allow. On the south of the island, the channel that separates Pemba from Zanzibar is similar and best accessed by liveaboard. Pelagic sightings might include mantas and whale sharks.
For more classic reef diving the western side of Pemba is host to shallow walls, sloping reefs and a surprising amount of unusual critters like ghost pipefish. The area is liable to the vagaries of time and tide. The reefs are a way off shore and the inner lagoons are extremely shallow. Currents are an every-dive occurrence, although they are nowhere near as strong as the eastern coast. And as there are so many small islands it is always easy to find a sheltered location.
ZANZIBAR: about 40 kilometres from the mainland, this town is very African but with many roots in the ancient trade with Arab nations. Zanzibar has a unique mix of history, culture and natural beauty . Sandy beaches and swaying coconut palms are the backdrop to some great hotels and dive centres. The diving here is not so different to that on Pemba with the better areas on the northern tip of the island. Mnemba Island, just off shore, has the best wall dives while the Leven Bank out in the Pemba Channel is a very impressive, but fairly advanced dive with strong currents.
There’s also a good range of reefs around the coast suitable for all levels of diving. There’s a variety of corals and reef fish plus turtles, barracuda, blue spotted rays and so on. Diving on the western coast is again, subject to tidal changes and can be limited but there are some more unusual critters like crocodile fish, scorpion fish and eagle rays.
MAFIA: this cluster of islands south of Zanzibar is a Marine Park and makes a perfect, chilled-out dive holiday. The island depends mostly on its coconut plantations, but there are hotels that run dive trips although, as yet, very few divers visit. Sites are within a natural bay formed by the outer islands, and are generally sheltered and quite shallow. A few sites do get currents but mostly it’s classic reef formations, walls, pinnacles and coral gardens. |
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| SAFARIS |
| Nothing can quite match watching the great wildebeest migration across the Serengeti or waking up on the rim of the Ngorogoro crater to find a giraffe staring through your window. Tanzania retains a real taste of Africa and the safaris here are superb. |
| TANZANIA FACT FILE: |
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Entry: visas required but costs and regulations vary. Contact the embassy for details.
Flights: Tanzania Air, British Airways and Gulf fly to Dar es Salaam. KLM fly direct to Mount Kilimanjaro.
Departure tax: US $ 20
GENERAL:
Language: Swahili is the official language, but most people speak English.
Money: £1 = 2100 Tanzania Shillings
Electricity: 220 - 240 volts
Health: Hepatitis A and B, typhoid, tetanus, polio, rabies and anti-malarial tablets.
DIVING
Seasons: the country is dry and hot, except in rainy March and April. The islands are sea breeze cooled.
Visibility: 5 metres to 30
Water temperatures: 25 - 29 degrees.
Deco chambers: Mombasa.
Disclaimer: All facts were checked at time of publication but things change! Check with relevant authorities for updates.
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