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R E G I O N A L • T R A V E L • G U I D E
Mexico | Belize | Honduras |
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| To the uninitiated, Mexico and Central America might be regarded as the Caribbean as their eastern coastlines border that sea, yet these coastal nations have a secret that sets them apart... their coasts sit along the edge of the planet's second largest barrier reef. Less well known than Australia's famous attribute, the Great Western Barrier Reef runs down Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula, south through Belize, Guatemala and Honduras, before finally petering out just off Nicaragua. |
| HISTORY |
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The region is one of spectacular history... Incas, Toltecs and Mayans all left their mark as did, in later centuries, the Spanish, British and most recent of all colonial forces, the Americans. Although each of these small Central American nations displays different personality traits depending on who conquered them - or failed to - they all have an interesting feel of old world charm that just can't be quite wiped out by modern developments.
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| MARINE LIFE |
The Caribbean doesn't have the diversity of marine species found elsewhere in the world, but there are more along the Western Barrier Reef than elsewhere in the area. Because Central America is an isthmus of land that connects two major continents it becomes the meeting point for many species from both.
The reefs have a basic structure of hard corals with a top layer of soft corals, mostly referred to as sea plumes. These look like twiggy tree branches in autumn until the currents bring the polyps out to feed and they become soft and furry feathers. Sea rods are abundant, as are numerous small cactus corals and flat bladed sea whips. Colours tend to be pastel but rare bluebell tunicates and iridescent disc corals add a bright splash here and there.
Fish species range from typical angels and butterfly fish to diamond head blennies and greater soap fish. There's plenty of crustaceans; sea horses are hard to spot but regular finds while nudibranchs are less common.
Pelagics include nurse and reef sharks, eagle rays and turtles. But most exciting - if you're in the right place at the right time - is the opportunity to see whale sharks.
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MEXICO
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Mexico is an exceptionally interesting country. At least once in your life you need to wander the ancient cobbled streets of a tiny silver town like Zacatecas, discover rich-man’s playground Acapulco or marvel at the ingenuity of the Aztecs, Toltecs and Mayans, incredible races that ensuing decades of colonialisation and modernisation failed to completely destroy.
It would be hard to do more than skim the surface of such a large country, but the Yucatan Peninsula will allow you to get a feel for the history while you stay at a dive resort. Don't miss easily accessible ancient sites like Chichen-Itza or Spanish Merida.
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| Dive Destinations: |
Mainland: On the Yucatan coast lies a highly westernized vacation area nicknamed the Mayan Riviera. Tourism centres around purpose built Cancun which reflects the joys of international travel in the way most divers would prefer to avoid, but if high-octane night-life is your scene then this could be the place for you. If you fancy something slightly less developed, head south to smaller Playa del Carmen or north to Isla Mujeres.
There is some good diving in this area. Colourful reef fish congregate over small walls and Mujeres is known for its caves. Cenotes are also a feature. The land beneath the peninsula is riddled with extensive natural caves filled with freshwater. The Mayans tapped this resource by digging sacred cenotes - or wells - down into them. These have since become dive sites but only for the experienced!
Cozumel: Directly opposite Cancun the ‘island of swallows’ has a more balanced personality - the small main town, San Miguel has night life, serious shopping and the highest percentage of dive centres of almost any Caribbean destination. There's shallow and calm dives or adrenaline pumping drifts. The currents have sculpted expansive coral formations, sheltered lagoons and entertaining swim throughs. Half way up the island's coast is a protected marine reserve, Parque Chankanaab.
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Favourite dive: The Devils Throat
Not a choice for those without a little cave diving experience, the Devil's Throat is off the southern most point of Cozumel. The currents can be pretty strong and finding the entry point is definitely for the pro's. ?After floating along the wall for a while, our guide disappeared into a tiny hole. We followed but were faced with a blank wall and no divemaster.... moving forward we realised that the exit was a completely vertical tube, just wide enough for a single diver. Head first, we plunged down the Devil's Throat and then emerged a few minutes later at 37 metres on the reef wall. Next, we were led back into another cave where the sunlight filtered down through the reef like rays through a stained glass window!'
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| MEXICO FACT FILE |
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Entry: EU, US and Commonwealth - valid passport and Tourist Card, issued on entry.
Seasons: December -April, busy and dry. July - August, hot and not too wet. September - October, less rainy and less crowded.
Airports: Cozumel and Cancun
Flights: American, Continental and BA via Houston or Miami. Overnight stop required.
Departure tax: $12 US
DIVING
Visibility: 20 - 30+ metres
Water temperatures: 25-28 degrees
Deco chambers: Cancun and Cozumel . Dive centres add $1 per day to fund the chamber.
GENERAL:
Language: Spanish and English
Money: £1 = 18 pesos
Electricity: 110 volts
Health: No specific inoculations, anti malaria tablets if you go inland. Drink boiled or bottled water.
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| BELIZE |
Just south of Mexico is tiny Belize, a country that has a bit of a confused personality. 4000 years of Mayan rule had disappeared when the Spanish arrived in the 16th century. They were followed by Brits and Scots in the C17th then the Americans soon after. Having said that, it's calm and peaceful and you genuinely feel you’ve stepped back in time. Except if you're in an American run resort, of course.
Belize City is a ramshackle affair with little of historical note so it's mostly worth heading straight offshore or inland to one of the few archaeological sites. Both Lamanai and Xunantunich are worth a side trip as would be one of the nature reserves. |
| Dive Destinations: |
There is good diving offshore at the famed locales of Ambergris Caye, the Turneffe Islands, Lighthouse Reef and Glover's Reef. The dive sites off Ambergris Caye feature pretty coral formations, swim-throughs, small tunnels and caverns and occasional encounters with sharks and rays. Hol Chan Marine Reserve protects the area off the southern tip of Ambergris. The Turneffe Islands are a coral atoll with hundreds of mangrove covered islets. Farther out Lighthouse Reef has its own fantastic marine ecosystem, with the added feature of the huge and famous Blue Hole. Glover's Reef atoll offers one of the greatest varieties of reef species found anywhere in the Caribbean, and a marine reserve ensures things will stay that way.
Favourite Dive: The Blue Hole
You would expect the only answer to be the Blue Hole. Made famous by Jacques Costeau this is almost a pilgrimage, one of those tick of the list sites. 'We entered the water and looked down to see... absolutely nothing. Next, we descended quickly through pure blue water to 38 metres and had a quick glimpse of the stalagmites that hang from a hidden ledge before our divemaster signalled us straight back up for a safety stop. It was all a bit spooky and, in all honesty, there’s not much to see but we remember the adrenaline rush of the bounce through the clearest of waters and the ghostly surrounds'.
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| BELIZE FACT FILE |
Entry Requirements: EU, US and Commonwealth need a valid passport and return ticket
Seasons: warm all year. Rainy, June - August; dry, February - May
Airport: Belize City
Flights: American, Continental and BA via Houston. Overnight stop required.
Departure tax: c.$30BZ
DIVING
Visibility: can reach over 30m
Water: 25-28 degrees
Deco chamber: San Pedro, Ambergris Caye
GENERAL:
Language: English plus Spanish & Creole
Money: £1 = 3.2 Belize dollars. A 5% service charge is added to credit cards
Electricity: 110 volts
Health: No specific inoculations - take sensible precautions and anti malaria tablets. Drink boiled or bottled water.
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| HONDURAS |
One of the least developed and industrialised countries in Central America, Honduras is hardly known to those as far away as we are. Christopher Columbus named Honduras - meaning depth - for the deep water off her coast. The Mayans, Spanish, British and Dutch have all had footholds in the past while recently, the US continue to 'involve' themselves in political and military affairs.
All the same this is a completely peaceful nation, with a slow pace of life and the type of tourism kept secret by long-term travellers. Honduras is also home to more than great diving - the fantastic Mayan site at Copán is worth a diversion inland as is the lush cloud forest at Parque Nacional Pico Bonito on the coast opposite the islands. |
| Dive Destinations: |
The giant barrier reef system reaches its southern end in Honduras. The incredible diving in this area is located around the individual Bay Islands. Each has it's own personality and features.
Roatan is the largest and most famous - there’s an international airport, masses of American style resorts and a small main town. The centre of the island is jungle bound and lush, with the hills falling steeply to the sea. Coasts are riddled with tiny cays and mangroves while below the surface there are fissures, ledges and overhangs. Steep walls and lagoon dives are plentiful.
Utila is a completely different proposition to her neighbour - flat, dry and sandy. Just one narrow street runs from the gravel strip airport past a set of rustic shops, restaurants and guest houses before ending at a small beach. The island is well loved by trainee divers as course rates are cheap. There's a wreck in the bay, shallow reefs, deep walls, small caves and if you're really really lucky, whale sharks! In the dry season they say you can see them most days.
Guanaja took the brunt of Hurricane Mitch in 1998 but over the years has managed to claw back it position as a worthy dive destination. There are some impressive drop-offs on one side of the island while the other shows strong signs of recovery from Mitch’s fury. An excellent wreck lies 20 minutes off shore. The main town is unique - whatever land may have been there once has been gobbled up by an ever expanding ring of floating houses.
Favourite dive: The Prince Albert
While Utila is our favourite of the Bay Islands for all round dive quality, the single dive we always enjoy the most has to be the shore dive at Coco View resort. 'We waded into the water cameras in one hand, fins in the other until we reached a raised kitting-up platform. From there it's just a case of dropping into waist high water and following the gentle slope until the hull of the Prince Albert emerges from the blue. We have visited her several times over the years from not long after she was laid to rest as just a bare skeleton, till recently when she had become home to many new critters. Puffer fish, small rays and lots of crustaceans bring life and colour back to her.'
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| HONDURAS FACT FILE: |
Entry: EU, US and Commonwealth passports 30 days without a visa.
Seasons: The coast is warm all year but it is rainy. Avoid September/October to January/February.
Airports: San Pedro Sula, Roatan, La Ceiba
Flights: Virgin or BA via Miami, overnight stop required. Connections with TACA.
Departure tax: US$25
DIVING
Visibility: up to 30m
Water: 25-28 degrees
Deco chamber: Roatan
GENERAL:
Language: Spanish and English on the Islands
Money: £1 buys 30 lempira
Electricity: 110 volts, sometimes 220v on the islands
Health: No inoculations required, sensible precautions and anti malaria tablets. The islands get ‘no-see-ums’ a tiny biting fly. Take repellent. Drink boiled or bottled water. |
| Disclaimer: All facts were checked at time of publication but things change! Check with relevant authorities for updates. |
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