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R E G I O N A L • T R A V E L • G U I D E
AUSTRALIA |
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| A place of timeless beauty: from sun warmed landscapes to dense tropical rainforests; chilly southern beaches to roasting barren deserts. Australia is the ultimate destination for natural beauty. |
| HISTORY |
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For many, Australia is the biggest draw card of them all. In fact “big” is an adjective that’s often used in conjunction with the country. It’s sheer size can be overwhelming and visitors rarely realise just what an enormous place it is. Compare it to the United States - Australia’s land mass is 7.68 million square kilometres, not far beneath America which tips the scales at 9.63 million square kilometres. The real difference between these two continents though, is that America’s population is 285 million while Australia has just a paltry 19.5 million residents. And most of these live along a tiny strip of the east coast.
Major cities reflect their historical backgrounds... Sydney has the most of historical note being the first settlement, while Melbourne is all about the broad cultural diversity of it's Mediterranean immigrant population. Brisbane and much of tropical Queensland falls under the shadow of her oriental neighbours while Perth, is well, quiet.
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| MARINE LIFE AND WILDLIFE |
What makes Australia fascinating for divers is that the land spans several distinctive climate zones. There’s over 35000 kilometres of coastline - the very tip of northern Queensland is just 10 degrees short of the equator while Tasmania in the far south has a climate not unlike northern England.
Most people’s image of Australia can be very wacky... being a native, I’ve been asked more times than I care to think about whether you see kangaroos in Sydney. Aaah, no. Even though our cultural capital may be a bit behind the times, it is a still thriving metropolis. Despite this amusing impression, it is a land of incredible natural features. What it lacks in history, it makes up for in weird wildlife. Kangaroos are easy to spot outside metropolitan areas and outrageous parrots actually do nest in the inner cities.
When it comes to marine life, there is simply masses. Western Australia’s Ningaloo Reef is the location to go whaleshark spotting, minke whales traverse the GBR and blue whales slide down the eastern seaboard regularly. Little guys are often indigenous - Kangaroo island is just about the only locale on the planet to see leafy seadragons - and you can go seahorse spotting in the middle of Sydney.
Right across Australia, conservation is a major issue. The country is very protective of it’s natural resources and rightly so. Much of what you will see there is unique due to it’s geological formation so you will be constantly reminded to respect it. |
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| Dive Destinations: |
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This vast expanse holds some of the most varied diving on the planet: cool water wrecks to bath-tub temperature reefs to isolated atolls in the middle of nowhere. Although you could pick up a tank and dive almost anywhere around the coastline there are two main regions that attract visitors: Queensland’s Great Barrier Reef and the reefs off Western Australia.
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| QUEENSLAND |
The Great Barrier Reef: the planet’s longest coral reef system trips down the east coast of the state of Queensland, petering out just above the Tropic of Capricorn. This natural entity stretches for 2000 kilometres, has more than 3000 individual reefs, 1500 species of fish, 400 corals and 4000 molluscs. It is a World Heritage site, but that’s not to say it’s pristine along it’s entire length. This is an active, working, continually changing resource where divers vie for space with fishermen and natural phenomena like hurricanes and crown of thorns starfish can cause considerable damage.
Diving is a well developed industry, no more so than around Cairns where the reef comes closest to the coast. There are three distinct regions:
The Inner Reefs are those within a couple of hours sail and tend to be shallow sites, up to 20 metres, and season dependant. In the winter the water will be a little murky, but remains calm while more distant reefs are exposed to incoming winds. Small coral outcrops are awash with tropical fish and some interesting critters lurking on the sand.
The Outer or Ribbon Reefs are the ones that form the main edge of the “barrier”. Walls drop to greater depths, visibility is better, currents can be a bit stiffer but also attract bigger pelagics. This is the place to spot minke whales in the winter or visit the famous Cod Hole.
The Coral Sea refers to the area outside the GBR where several deep water, landless atolls can be dived. These are exposed but completely pristine, attracting nothing more than dive boats. The only way to get there is an overnight sail so a liveaboard is a must, and also the best way to enjoy the Ribbon Reefs.
CAIRNS: the capital of the dive industry, this once shabby town is now a tourist mecca. Hotels, restaurants and shopping malls are bright and trendy. There are masses of dive shops all running trips to the reef. Don’t worry if you’re not qualified, as courses operate daily - and what a wonderful place to learn to dive! You can arrange day trips or liveaboards in Cairns.
PORT DOUGLAS: just an hour north this small town has all the cachet of the Riviera. There are classy restaurants, cool bars and tasteful (but not necessarily expensive) accommodation. Several operators take people out on day trips to the reef and being a little further north, can access different areas to those you might see from Cairns. This is also the home port of a couple of good liveaboards and the closest point to the tropical Daintree Rainforest.
TOWNSVILLE: a bit of a trek (or short flight) south of Cairns, this is the closest point to one of Australia’s best known wrecks. The S.S. Yongala sank during a cyclone in 1911 but was not discovered until 1958. Because the reef veers away from the coast here, marine life flocks to the wreck making for some exciting diving with day diving and liveaboards available.
GOING SOUTH: All the way down the Queensland coast there are dive opportunities - wherever there is a town or offshore island there will be a dive centre.
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| WESTERN AUSTRALIA |
Like the east coast, Western Australia is also bordered by a lengthy fringing reef. The difference is that this one borders the Indian Ocean, rather than the Pacific. Deep water currents and migratory patterns bring in a diverse array of marine life. Western Aussie has another major difference too. It’s deserted. Even by local standards this area has a tiny population. Bette Midler once joked that you couldn't keep an envelope open in Perth past 9pm and once you’re outside it, things tend to be - well, quiet. However, the city has a rather stylish feel and is a great entry point for Down Under novices.
Like the rest of the country you can dive almost anywhere but there are far fewer facilities than in Queensland. Most people head north to either Ningaloo Reef or way north to Broome and the distant and isolated Rowley Shoals.
Broome and the Rowley Shoals: Undoubtedly, one of Australia’s most charming backwaters, in the late 1800’s Broome supported a substantial pearl fishing industry. Run by as many Asians as white folk, the town’s legacy is somewhat mixed but utterly seductive. The perfect pink sand beach (known as Cable Beach as it’s where the telecoms cable stretches across to Indonesia) is also the kicking off point for the 12 hour steam to the Rowley Shoals.
This remote atoll system is only accessible 3 months of the year (Sept - Nov) so you can just imagine how pristine it is. The water is truly like gin and the hard corals more immaculate than you have ever seen. You can encounter reef sharks, black tips, white tips and we even managed to snorkel with a tiger shark. It wasn’t intentional.
Exmouth and Ningaloo Reef: unlike it’s east coast counterpart, Ningaloo comes in as close as 100 metres to the coast so shore diving is an option. There’s plenty to see including the world’s largest fish. Whale Sharks can be spotted from March to June when the water is very plankton rich. Special trips led by spotter plains head out from shore daily. Other pelagics visit Ningaloo too, but seeing them is definitely seasonal - humpback whales, manta rays and various turtles all taking their turn.
This is a place for lovers of peace - if you can imagine how small Broome is, just wait till you hit Exmouth’s Coral Bay - really nothing more than a couple of holiday homes, a few friendly locals and the remnants of what was an American Naval Base. They left in the early 90’s and the Aussie Navy moved in. Diving their pier is amazing - encrusted in coral, the life underneath this structure is prolific with wobbegong sharks, barracuda and even nudibranchs. |
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| SPECIALIST DIVING |
As mentioned earlier, wherever you can jump into Australian water, you’re bound to find good diving. A couple of spectacular options are as follows:
South Australia - perhaps best known for it’s wine, diving here is spectacular, but not for the faint hearted. Great White sharks reside around Port Lincoln near Adelaide, where the “live” scenes for Jaws were shot. There’s also seal colonies, blue whales and giant squid. Kangaroo Island nearby is THE place to see spectacular Leafy Sea Dragons.
Perth - there are several immaculate wrecks within an hour of Perth, including the HMS Swan which was only sunk recently, and the ones at Rottnest Island. For the ultimate wild dolphin experience visit Monkey Mia Beach were they come in to knee deep water to interact with people.
New South Wales - just south of Sydney, Jervis Bay is home to a pod or two of dolphins and whale sightings are frequent. Weekend liveaboards run throughout the year. A couple of hours north of Sydney, the waters around Forster can guarantee you a dive with grey nurse sharks or there's resident a seal colony. |
| FACT FILE: |
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Entry: Everyone except New Zealanders needs a visa. Most airlines will issue an Electronic Travel Authority with their ticket. There may be a small fee depending on your nationality.
Flights: From Europe, the most frequent flyers to Australia are Singapore Airlines, followed by Qantas, BA, Malaysian and many other carriers.
GENERAL:
Language: English with a twist.
Money: £1 = $2.3 AU
Electricity: 240 volts
Health: No inoculations but care should be taken to avoid Sunburn and heat stroke. Deadly box jellyfish appear north of Cairns in the summer.
DIVING
Seasons: vary dramatically depending on location. Summer (December to February) can get uncomfortably hot and humid in the far north, while mid-country latitudes are delightful. Winter (June to August) in the far south is very chilly, you can even go skiing.
Visibility: 5 metres to 40 or more
Water temperatures: vary dramatically depending on location.
Deco chambers: Adelaide, Brisbane, Darwin, Fremantle, Hobart, Melbourne, Sydney.
Disclaimer: All facts were checked at time of publication but things change! Check with relevant authorities for updates.
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