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Diving the Maldives
Hanifaru Lagoon | manta rays and whalesharks

Hanifaru scuba diving features

manta rays
whalesharks
To see the full Hanifaru video, click here...

DESTINATION OVERVIEW
The tropical charm that is the Maldives has developed beyond all recognition – and into a truly grown-up diving destination. There are stylish island resorts, a raft of liveaboards and now the chance to witness a stunning marine phenonemon... introducing Hanifaru Lagoon.

Baa Atoll lies northwest of North Malé Atoll and until a few years ago, this area was almost unheard of with just a couple of resorts and an occasional liveaboard passing through. Now though, the news of the incredible manta ray aggregation has leaked out and more and more people are flocking to see this extraordinary event.

Although the why's and wherefore's have not been investigated fully, Hanifaru's shallow lagoon captures incredible amounts of plankton. This natural occurrence relates to tides, the moon phase and currents. At certain times, the water inside the lagoon turns dark with microscopic critters and even darker with more mantas than you will ever see in your life. It's nothing to see 50, 100, 200 at a time – who knows how many, it's impossible to count them. What makes this tiny speck of ocean even more astounding is that the mantas are often joined by whalesharks – you will feel like a mad thing from a horror movie as your head attempts to do 360 degree spins to see them all. Words cannot do this justice.

Seasons:
July to October for the manta aggregations, diving is all year round
Visibility:
10 – 30 metres
Water temperature:
25 – 29º C.
Deco chambers:
Bandos, Male

Flights to Malé from across Europe, Singapore or Dubai

Liveaboards:
the range is expanding and becoming more upmarket but it's worth sticking with operators who are experienced in these waters.

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PROS AND CONS
Without a doubt, being submerged, or snorkelling, amongst so many manta rays (and a couple of whalesharks) is going to be one of the top diving events of your life. There is no guarantee that the congregation will arrive when you do, but there are very good dives in the vicinity if not. It's worth noting that the season is short (July to October) and this is also the season when the weather is at it's most unpredicatble. Because of that, try to book at least a 10 or 12 day trip to allow some flexibility in schedules. If the mantas are AWOL, the boat will relocate and then return.

OPINION
You simply have to do it. It will be crowded, it will not be peaceful and idyllic but this is an unmissable marine phenomenon. We travelled with Maldives Scuba Tours who pioneered this region. Their boats, Sea Spirit and Sea Queen are British owned, traditional in style, small but well laid out and with all diving conducted from an additional vessel that shadows the main boat. Read more on this page.

Looking after Hanifaru Lagoon | This tiny marine lagoon became famous after news of its occupants reached the international media. Once that happened, the number of visitors exploded and local authorities realised it needed protection. The Maldivian Government tagged the lagoon as a marine protected zone but sadly, it is not policed. A code of conduct was drawn up but it is a voluntary code. There are a lot of boats with divers heading up to Hanifaru but more problematic are the number of 'day-trippers' that arrive from local resorts to snorkel. We did not witness any misbehaviour, but generally snorkellers are less educated in the ways of the marine world than divers and are unsure how to react in this situation. Education is vital for everyone.

When you go, learn what you can and must not do. Respect the animals and don't harass them. Try to stay out of their way as they swim through the lagoon. But having said that, honestly, the mantas do have a tendency to get close to the divers... those exhaust bubbles push the plankton right up in the water column and into their mouths! Sitting stationary on the bottom seems to be the best plan, while snorkelling can be difficult, as you don't have the option to manoeuvre away as easily.

Hanifaru needs protection There are several plans on the table regarding restricting numbers, but none seem all that viable. | Better news is that the lagoon has been submitted to UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Fingers and wing tips crossed.

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