Diving Mabul on Borneo's Litigan Reefs | Malaysia

DESTINATION OVERVIEW | Mabul Island is a diving gem. Located on the Litigan Reefs and close to both Kapalai and Sipadan, the island has a reputation for all things macro. Critter life is prolific around the gently sloping shores.

There are several resorts on the island, including, just off-shore, one housed in a not-so-pretty oil derrick that was relocated from Borneo's west coast. It’s not the sort of place most people want to stay in, but the marine life beneath the platform is impressive. There are swarms of jacks, snappers and rabbitfish, but the big interest is in the small critters: lime green, football-sized frogfish and midnight black ones; stonefish that lurk on the sand and huge morays ensconced at the base of a pylon. There are crocodilefish, scorpionfish, nudibranchs and masses of crustaceans.

Away from the derrick a little, the corals are prettier and hidden in amongst the cracks and tentacles are loads more frogfish, unusual shrimp and ornate ghost pipefish. The sandy beach areas have more good muck diving with seahorses, flying gurnards, fingered dragonets, long snout pipefish, snake eels and several sorts of file fish.

PROS AND CONS | For underwater photographers or those interested in unusual creatures, this resort ranks highly for critter diving destinations in Asia. It's a big island compared to Kapalai and many people prefer that as you can walk about but it also means more divers on the dive sites. You can dive at Sipadan from Mabul.

SCUBA DIVING | There can be some strong currents when the tides change but the divemasters know what sites to avoid when. Most dives are fairly shallow and visibility is never gin-clear due to the tides moving over the sandy seabed. The top dive is under the incredibly ugly oil rig that has been parked offshore. Don't be put off, there is some amazing life.

OPINION | We have never stayed on Mabul as we loved Kapalai and returned there, but wherever you stay in this area, you will be able to dive around all the islands.

MALAYSIA | Explore other diving destinations in Indonesia

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