We know exactly what we expected when we headed for Loloata Resort in Papua New Guinea but we didn't get it. The reputation that goes with this tiny resort is one of a serious muck divers haven, home to magnificent critters in every shape, size and colour. But then we arrived and realised we were in for a reality check - there is so much more there than that!

Yoshi, our divemaster, asked what we’d come to see? The lacy scorpion fish, of course! This area is recognised as being about the only place where this Rhinopias species is guaranteed. She took us off to End Bommie where we found a spectacular reef smothered in olive tubastrea, purple and white soft corals and incredible numbers of anthias darting in and out. Everywhere we looked had something beautiful to admire - and of course, the lacy was there as promised. This is one gorgeous fish.

We were surprised to find the whole area is a mass of rainbow reefs full of schooling fish and pristine corals, but an even bigger surprise was the wrecks.

The waters of Bootless Bay are littered with them. Both the MV Pai II and the Pacific Gas wreck were great dives. Encrusted by tubastrea, soft corals and fans in all sorts of colours, they support a mass of anthias and glass fish. Longnose hawkfish and pipefish nestle in amongst it all while the hulls are dramatic in the suns rays.

We came for muck diving and Loloata proved it has a version of that too. Nearby Lion Island is home to a small wreck that rages with tiny interesting critters - shrimp, shells, nudibranchs and ghost pipefish. Snake eels and octopus inhabit the sandy sea bed. Loloata turned out to be so much more than we expected and one of the most exciting dive trips we have done in quite some time.