Diving Komodo | Indonesia

DESTINATION OVERVIEW | Many people visit Komodo just to see the famed Komodo dragon, but for scuba divers the surrounding marine park is regarded as one of the most important in Indonesia.

In the north, warm waters flow from the Banda Sea. Below the surface, reefs are extensive and in good condition. To the south, cooler waters flow from the Indian Ocean and deep water up-wellings bring masses of plankton towards the surface. These conditions are perfect for exceptional marine bio-diversity and outstanding scuba diving.

Dive sites vary from famous muck sites like Copycat Copycat, where all the creatures mimic their surroundings, to big open water sites like Pilarsteen. Most famous beyond a shadow of doubt is Cannibal Rock, where there is a wealth of small creatures: pygmy seahorses, rhinopias, Colman's shrimp are seen here regularly as is the little known sea apple, a type of sea cucumber.

THE ENVIRONMENT | A century ago, the island of Komodo was only known to those who followed the travels of British naturalist and explorer, Alfred Wallace. He recognised an invisible line that lies to the east of Bali in the Lombk Channel. Tagged the 'Wallace Line', this refers to the two totally different environments on either side. Islands to the east are tropical – Bali is green and lush – while Komodo to the east of the line, is far drier and arid, yet it is a haven for many unusual creatures both on land and in the sea.

PROS AND CONS | Komodo used to be a really unique dive trip – just a couple of liveaboards travelled this way and you were guaranteed almost total solitude. Now there are masses of boats of all types and standards. All the same, this is still a great destination – you just won't be the only person diving these waters – and there is really no other sensible way to see it as land resorts are too far away for easy access across te entire marine park.

SCUBA DIVING | Dive conditions aren't exactly typical of the tropics – the water can be cool and washing machine currents are common. However, by the time you get into to the swing of things you'll quickly discover why the diving is so good. If you're up for the challenge, you won't find much better.

OPINION | We have dived this area more times than we care to count and it is some of the best we have ever done. There is just so much to see, no two dives on a single site are ever the same. The variety of species is incredible – manta rays compete with Colman's shrimp, pygmy seahorses with giant tuna. Fish everywhere, unusual critters hiding in nooks and crannies, pelagics overhead... it is quite amazing.

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