Right at the top of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula is the island of Cozumel. This is a popular destination with our American buddies as it's just a few hours away from the southern States, but despite the proximity, it remains a fairly Mexican sort of place. Most tourism targets the western coast, and as fresh water is at a premium, on shore development hasn't been as prolific as it is on the Yucatan Peninsula.

We have been to the island four times over the last 15 years and it hasn't changed that much. There is a good mix of Mexican culture and western facilities. Local food, arts and festivals nudge against burger bars and high class hotels. The only downside is the daily arrival of huge cruise liners and their shopoholic passengers. Fortunately, they depart by sunset and the island returns to normal.

The limestone shore surrounding the island is mostly craggy but warm, clear waters reveal shallow coral formations that run to the southern tip of the island. Palancar Reef is a national park and is characterised by lots of interesting swim throughs, tunnels and caverns. Colombia Reef has plateaus in less than 30 feet of water, but all the reefs are subject to some spiky currents. Drift diving is the order of the day more often than not. Chankanaab Lagoon is good for snorkelling but all other sites are accessed by boat. Marine life is typically Caribbean but with an interesting mix of small and large creatures. The most distinguishing feature of the dives are that they are generally drifts. You can catch some really speedy currents that some people find uncomfortable.