Our trip started in Hurghada. The reefs we saw were in reasonable condition. Although the coral has taken a bit of a battering over the years, marine life is still plentiful.

We made the Brothers on the second day and tension mounted as everyone waited to see if the area would live up to its publicity. Two enormous rocks protrude out of the sea both with sheer walls that drop to beyond 40 meters - and both can be swept by some strong currents. While we were there currents were minimal and visibility was pristine as were the corals. The Brothers are known for pelagics - shark sightings and manta visits. Unfortunately, we weren't that lucky as we were only able to stay for two days (see pros and cons below) but we did glimpse our first ever scalloped hammerhead and a couple of distant thresher sharks.

After the Brothers we headed back in to dive the reefs around Safaga. We saw another hammerhead as well as plenty of turtles, tuna and schooling jacks. Plus some great octopus encounters and even a seagrass ghost pipefish. The wreck of the Salem Express was an outstanding dive, if rather sad as the sea bed is littered with evidence of her demise - you can see suitcases and items like shoes. Dived with respect though, it is one of the best wrecks in the Red Sea.